Gorilla Valley Lodge looks straight at the rainforest. Bwindi is old growth, dense enough that the light changes character once you are inside it, and the gorilla families that live there are the reason most people come to this corner of Uganda.

The lodge is close to the trekking start, which matters on a morning when you need to be at the briefing early. Rooms are warm and en-suite, with private verandas facing the trees.

After a day on the trail there is a fire in the evening, and the forest carries on making noise regardless.